Classics Department’s Tour of the Bay of Naples: 1st-4th July 2024

On Monday 1st July, 34 students boarded the coach to London Heathrow bright and early just after 5am, ready to explore the classical wonders of the Bay of Naples. Mercury, the Roman god of travellers, was on our side and we soon arrived at the incredible National Archaeological Museum in Naples ready to see the highlights. In two separate tours the students were whisked around on a guided tour led by the indefatigable Mrs Binney, to see the original frescoes, mosaics and artefacts that the eruption of Vesuvius preserved around the Bay of Naples. Despite a long day of travelling, there were soon cries of “oooh!” and “aaah!” as the students recognised items featured in the Cambridge Latin Course, GCSE and A Level study and the Classics classrooms at school and they could easily identify the myths and stories behind these impressive statues and artworks. It was sobering to see our first plaster cast and to be reminded of the human cost of the eruption, but also heartening to see such humanity, skill and expertise and just how much has been preserved of both daily life as well as the wealth and luxury from so long ago.  We all agreed that Hotel Stabia, right on the beach where Pliny the Elder fell during the eruption of 79AD, was most luxurious accommodation. Dinner, served in the marble and glass decorated upper floor with sweeping views over the Bay of Naples was a grand three course Italian feast, served in style. After a promenade along the beachfront’s boardwalk, it was time for bed after a long first day.

On Tuesday, after a continental breakfast with extensive choice, including cold meats, cheese, yoghurt, fresh fruit, croissants, pancakes and a variety of delicious cakes, we travelled to Mount Vesuvius itself. After a spot of souvenir shopping and some photo opportunities we climbed the volcanic trail to the summit, admiring the clear and impressive views across the Bay of Naples from the city itself towards the peninsula of Sorrento on the other side. Students could really appreciate why it is and always has been such a popular place to live as well as Pliny the Elder’s bravery in setting out on his rescue mission towards Pompeii from the naval base in Misenum. There was still an occasional whiff of sulphur from the crater of Vesuvius and the lava flow from the 1944 eruption was clearly visible on the trek up.  Lunch was just outside Herculaneum and the delicious home-cooked margherita pizzas on the roof-terrace went down a treat. After reapplying more sunscreen we embarked on another speedy tour of Herculaneum, led by Mrs Binney who focused on the highlights since it was now as hot as Hades. The incredibly well-preserved baths, a thermopolium (or ancient snack-bar), ably demonstrated by Mr Briggs as shopkeeper, the College of the Augustales, carbonised remains of wood and rope, a huge atrium in the Samnite House, the House of Neptune and Amphitrite, and the newly opened beach where you can stand where those poor souls had their last moments for the first time and see replica of the skeletons found in the boatsheds really brought the city to life and helped put the things we saw in the Museum the day before into context. Having Vesuvius looming in the background and the modern city of Ercolano on top of the solidified rock between 16 and 25 metres above the ancient site certainly made us think of just how much volcanic matter engulfed this once proud city. Back in Stabia, we cooled down with some delicious gelato around the corner from the hotel then after showers and relaxation on the roof-terrace and another three course feast, students could watch the BBC docudrama on ‘The Last Days of Pompeii’ before bed.

Wednesday brought the eternal delights of Pompeii and the privilege of seeing the newly excavated Regio 9. What an incredible treat to see frescoes being uncovered before our eyes and ash scraped away to reveal them to the air for the first time in almost two thousand years.  Although no photos were allowed and we were led above rather than through the rooms, we could still clearly make out paintings recently featured in the news and the three-part documentary on BBC2. Led throughout by two compelling local guides, in addition to this area we explored the museum in the palaestra with its plaster casts of people and beds, amphorae and gladiator chains and then visited the amphitheatre, House of Julia Felix, the two theatres, Temple of Isis, the incredible Villa of the Mysteries, Caecilius’ house (hodie Caecilius non est in horto quod mortuus est), the House of the Vettii and House of the Faun and ended our tour in the forum with the thunder rolling around Vesuvius in a very atmospheric finale. Everyone loved seeing the impressive, richly decorated houses as well as appreciating the enormous scale of this archaeological site. That evening, after another lavish dinner of local Italian home-cooked food in the hotel whilst serenaded with live Italian music, we were presented with a cake by the staff to thank us for our visit. Then there was a really fun quiz on Italy and the ancient world led by Mrs Isom and expertly assisted by Mrs Marinelli as well as more opportunities for reflection in ‘The Book of Joy’ (aka an exercise book with happy memories). tempus fugit and time for bed.

Thursday brought our last day in Italy, but not before a scenic drive towards Sorrento and an opportunity for some more souvenir shopping. After some free time exploring the cobbled streets and sourcing their own lunch using Italian from their booklets, we gathered for a gelato-making demonstration and tasting at Gelateria David, who have been crafting gelato for three generations. Maestro Mario Gargiulo led the session, involving the girls in the measuring, churning and collection of the Sorrento Lemon sorbet we could all taste before choosing another two scoops of gelato or sorbet in a variety of flavours from their shop outside. Refreshed and ready to go, we travelled back to Naples to catch our flight home, reflecting on the many wonders seen and friends made. 

The students were a credit to our school, and it was a real pleasure to see how much their understanding and appreciation of these key classical sites grew in so little time. Without doubt the Bay of Naples is a place that can be visited again and again and never fails to impress. 

(Click on the image below to view the photo album)